Linderhof Castle: Bavarian respite for King Ludwig

Linderhof Castle is found situated in Bavaria, in the southern region of Germany, located on the site of an old military stud farm, called Schawiaganger.  It is in a deep valley at the end of the Romantic Road in the Aetal Valley and was designed by Karl von Effner, with much influence and direction by King Ludwig the II of Bavaria.  He designed three castles in his short life, during the late 19^th century, but only saw Linderhof  completed. He is the famous king who built Neuchwanstein Castle located near Munich in southern Germany that people the world over admire and know by site.  All three of his castles pay homage to Richard Wagner, a composer.  A very troubled and alienated youth, King Ludwig grew into a very elegant and famous admirer of opera and architecture.  Although his private life was filled with tragedy and scandal, his three castles are a work of art.  They are a testament to his sanity, as one theory is that his psychologist drowned him in the lake that Neuchwanstein overlooks; Lake Starnberg.

     The landscape design at Linderhof Castle was designed by Carl von Effner, who was the court gardener and came from a litany of gardeners.  The landscape, like the castle, itself, was a response to Versailles, which Ludwig and von Effner tried to emulate.  However the valley that Linderhof sat in was much too small for the design, even when it was reduced.  The size of the garden is on a much smaller scale than Versailles, (approximately 125 acres) but designed, nonetheless, after the Baroque inspired design by Le Notre. 

     The building itself: “schloss” was designed in neo-Rococo style and the gardens are done mostly in Baroque, as well as Renaissance; (the terraces), and English garden styles; (the grounds surrounding the formal garden).  Much like the gardens at Versailles, Linderhof has parterres, sculptures, buildings inspired by the Orient, fountains and originally; a theme inspired by Wagnerian operas that demonstrate how garden design can emulate another type of art.  Along with the opera metaphorical designs, the formal gardens at Linderhof also are divided into five sections that feature sculpture relating to the continents, the time of year and the elements.   Ludwig saved Wagner’s career by having him give private performances here and at his main castle; Neuchwanstein.  It is a testament to Ludwig’s graciousness, as he was also well liked by the Bavarian constituents of many generations.  As for Linderhof, it is a garden design that featured opulence and theatrics, but also is dictated by function. 

     As one enters the castle area, you drive over the river Linder on a historic bridge made of     , the grounds surrounding the castle and the garden are shaped and based on English hunting parks.   There is a duck pond to the west as one drives onto the grounds, a Moroccan house and the royal hunting lodge that Ludwig’s father used.  Entering the grounds around the actual Rococo castle, one comes upon the larger water parterre, located to the south of the palace.  It is an impressive and majestic site that mimics Versailles, as the fountains can reach heights of 22 m. and includes gilt figurines in the pond as well.  There is a large Linden tree next to the pond that is not only beautiful, but “disturbs the geometry of the design",  and gave the palace its name.  This gallant pool could be seen from the Hall of the Mirrors in the interior of the Palace and created a controlled view.   Like the view from the top of the music pavilion as well, this broad stroke of design helps the visitor enjoy and understand the illustration of an allegory (Wagner’s operas), and fully understand Ludwig and Von Essner’s combined visions.  Much like Le Notre achieved at Versailles and Vaux de Vicomte, through the use of Cartesian theory no doubt,  “ The subtle alterations of grade and multiplicity of perspectives at Vaux dramatize and dignify the chateau and carry the eye along an axial progression to carefully established focal points within the garden, as well as to the remote horizon beyond.  These effects are the result of precise mathematical calculation.   This is also achieved at Linderhof, whether von Effner used this or not, he still represents his axis much the same way.   “The sloping terrain facing the bedroom in the north tract of the new building was exploited to create a cascade. The water flows down the slope over 30 marble steps, each a miniature waterfall. With the Neptune Fountain at the bottom and the Music Pavilion at the top, the Cascade separates the palace from the countryside to the north.”

When you continue south behind the palace, you reach the three terrace gardens, which are also Baroque and Renaissance  inspired as they contain water nymphs’ sculptures and a bust of Marie Antoinette, as Ludwig was an avid fan of French absolutism and dedicated almost the entire design to that of Versailles.     The top of the terrace gardens hosts a temple of Venus in gold that is part of the response to Baroque design.  Many of the statues and fountains are gold, another extravagant gesture to the “gilded” age.  They offer companionship to the visitor, who otherwise might feel alienated in such a magnificent setting. Offsetting these terraces is the Linden tree, that Ludwig saved from felling and is very much the concept behind the garden, no doubt, as it it likely what captured Ludwig’s attention to the actual site, and remains the constant symbol.  As one continues through the park after visiting the eastern and western parterres, and the north and south axis gardens, moving to the east of the palace, you find yourself in a lush forest of oak, beech, and lime trees, moving along the winding paths treats visitors to  romantic and soothing scenery surrounded by the Ammergau Mountains and ending at the eastern part of the property and a few buildings, including the Hermitage Hut that King Ludwig visited every Good Friday for contemplation, and, “For this day he wanted a flowering meadow. If there was no such meadow because there was still snow lying, the garden director had to plant one for the king.”    

     Linderhof Palace was a response to many different types of Landscape Design:  Baroque,

Renaissance, and English garden.  The effect was quite brilliant, along with Ludwig of Bavaria’s

 quest to transfer his vision of the appreciation of arts and the seasons, along with mythology along

 the way.  The decadence may be somewhat overrated; however, the masses seem to enjoy it, as if one

 were reading a good book.  The calming sense of the Renaissance inspired terrace gardens:

the wonderful sense of the Baroque legend of design: grand gestures immortalizing allegorical figures, parterres, enormous water features, canals, axial planning and promenades all capitulating the garden grounds themselves  into a naturalistic English garden style surrounding, truly shows the vision of both designer and the owner.   The emulation of both style and obsession with a monarch;   Louis XIV and the way it was achieved is both brilliant and sad.  At a time in history when the Absolutist rulers were controlling their countries purse strings, living in grandeur and letting their people suffer, it is an undeniable greedy gesture to create such gardens.  The King behind the creation of this palace was much more Humanist and his responding design, was both a way to create a place of serenity for him and also pay homage to the many facets of art and culture at the same time.  Linderhof was the only castle Ludwig saw completed, so he did achieve a great thing, by keeping his vision true and honest. By combining so many variables to create a lasting impression of magnificent garden design, is indeed a noble gesture.  - B.S.